Amsterdam's Jordaan started as a workers' quarter for weavers and dockhands in the 17th century, squeezed between the canal ring and the old shipyards. Today it is full of narrow streets, hidden courtyards, and cafés that still look the way they did decades ago.

Where exactly is the Jordaan?

West of the main canal ring, roughly bounded by Prinsengracht and the Lijnbaansgracht. Walk fifteen minutes from Centraal Station and you are in it. The neighborhood is small enough to cover on foot in an afternoon, though most people end up staying longer than planned.

What should I look for when I walk through it?

Skip the main streets and cut down the side alleys. That is where the hofjes sit: small courtyards built centuries ago as almshouses for widows and the elderly, most still occupied, some open to the public during the day. Egelantiersgracht has one of the prettiest stretches of water in the whole neighborhood. Nine Streets (De 9 Straatjes) borders the Jordaan on its eastern edge and mixes vintage shops with small galleries.

Is the Jordaan good for food, or just sightseeing?

Both. Brown cafés are the neighborhood's real specialty: dark wood, low ceilings, beer poured without ceremony. Café Papeneiland has been serving drinks since 1642. For food, the area is dense with small bakeries and lunch spots that rarely need a reservation on a weekday.

How does the Jordaan connect to Amsterdam's street art scene?

More than you would expect from a historic district. Murals turn up on garage doors, side walls, and the odd construction hoarding, mixed in with centuries-old brick. Street Art Revolution: Amsterdam Underground runs a self-guided route through this area and the streets around it, so you get the old city and the new murals on one walk.

Give the Jordaan at least two hours. Rushing it defeats the point.